I just can’t get enough latkes.

I eat them only once a year. Usually on the first night of Hannukah, but not always. Sometimes it’s the weekend before. Sometimes the weekend after. Sometimes smack dab in the middle of those 8 days of light. It doesn’t matter much to me, as long as I get my seasonal helping of potato pancakes. It’s one of those culinary traditions that stuck with this non-religious daughter of a Catholic and a Jew.

For the uninitiated, latkes are fried patties of shredded potato and onion. Some cooks add carrot, zucchini, garlic and other ingredients. This year, I stuck to the basics. With ingredients, anyway. Not with technology: I use a food processor to grate my potatoes and onions. No box graters here. I’m too impatient for my latkes. That, and I’m kind of lazy.

It’s very important to get as much moisture out of your potatoes and onions as possible. Otherwise the latkes will fall apart. You can wring them in a kitchen towel. Or set them on some paper towels and press down hard (you’ll go through a lot of paper towels). Or set them in a strainer and press.

Then add your other ingredients, mix well, and toss 1/4-cup size patties into a skillet with some oil.

When the bottom browns, flip.

When the second side browns, remove the latkes and place on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Or you can set them on a wire rack that’s sitting on top of a baking sheet. Put the baking sheet in a 250-degree oven to keep the latkes warm while you cook the rest your batch of potatoes.

Some people like their latkes with a dollop of sour cream on top. But I think a generous helping of chunky applesauce spooned over top is the only way to go.

Latkes
Makes about 8 latkes

1 pound potatoes, peeled
1 small onion
1 large egg, lightly beatten
1 tablespoon milk
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Oil

Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

Grate potatoes and onion in a food processor. Spread the grated veggies on paper towels. Place more paper towels over top and press down hard. Remove as much liquid as possible. Alternately, you can put the grated veggies in a strainer and press down hard to drain liquid.

Transfer potatoes and onions to a bowl and stir in egg, milk, flour, salt and pepper.

Heat about 1/4 cup oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat. Use a measuring cup to to spoon 1/4-cup of potato mixture into the skillet. Use a fork to flatten into a patty. Cook more than one latke at a time if you have room in the skillet. Reduce heat to medium and cook until bottom is browned, about 5 minutes. Turn latkes over and cook until undersides are browned, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Cook the rest of the latkes, adding more oil to skillet as needed.

Place latkes in a shallow baking pan in the oven to keep them warm. Serve with applesauce or sour cream.